Things to do – the real Mallorca

Andratx is perfectly placed for exploring. The mountains start at the back door, the sea is minutes away, and nowhere on the island is much more than an hour’s drive. Here are some of my favourite ways to spend a day.

Close to home

• Andratx village: browse the Wednesday market, then stay for a coffee or lunch in the square and watch village life go by.
• Port Andratx: a short drive down the valley. Stroll the harbour, buy fish from the fish market (straight from the boats) and stay for a sundowner as the sun sets over the bay.
• Sant Elm: a little fishing village at the western tip of the island, with a sandy beach, seafront restaurants and wonderful views across to the island of Sa Dragonera. 
• Sa Dragonera: take the seasonal boat from Sant Elm to this uninhabited nature reserve. It’s great for walking up to the lighthouses and spotting the island’s famous lizards.

Beaches

• Camp de Mar: a sheltered bay just over the hill from Port Andratx, with clear, calm water that’s ideal for swimming and snorkelling.
• Sant Elm: easy, relaxed and lovely out of season.
• Cala Fornells: pretty, rocky coves near Peguera, with crystal-clear water for snorkelling.
• Es Trenc: worth the drive for a day out. It’s a long, unspoilt stretch of white sand and turquoise sea on the south coast.

Walking and cycling

• The Serra de Tramuntana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, starts right on your doorstep.
• La Trapa: a classic walk from Sant Elm up to the ruins of an old monastery, with breathtaking views over Sa Dragonera.
• The Dry Stone Route (GR221): Mallorca’s long-distance path through the mountains. You can walk it in short sections, starting near Andratx.
• Cyclists come from all over the world to ride the mountain roads, and quieter lanes run through the almond and olive groves inland. Bikes can be hired locally.

Day trips

• Palma: the cathedral, the old town’s narrow streets, Bellver Castle and the food markets. It’s easy to fill a day with shopping, tapas and history.
• Sóller: take the vintage wooden train from Palma through the mountains, then the old tram down to the Port of Sóller for lunch by the sea.
• Valldemossa and Deià: two beautiful mountain villages. Valldemossa is where Chopin spent a winter, and Deià was home to the poet Robert Graves.
• Pollença and Formentor: climb the 365 steps of the Calvari in Pollença, then head out to the dramatic cliffs of Cap de Formentor. In summer, check before you go, as car access to the cape can be restricted.

When the weather turns

• Explore Palma’s museums, galleries and covered markets.
• Visit a local winery for a tour and tasting.
• Settle in for a long Spanish lunch – there’s no better way to spend a rainy afternoon.